Jean Paul Gaultier returned to the line prêt-à-porter for the first time since 2014 – and bet on Durana Lantinka designer whose irony and experimentalism are reminiscent of Gaultier himself.
Paris Fashion Week and a new bet
The season brought a record number of debuts: eleven new creative directors. Entered the list on October 5th Duran Lantinkwho presented the first collection for Jean Paul Gaultier.
See Paris and die. I was especially impressed by the white wedding dress, which you don’t even need to take off for your wedding night. pic.twitter.com/oyzbf0zHP4
— Athens News (@russianathens) October 8, 2025
The appointment was perceived as bold. Myself Gautier in the 1980s received the nickname “l’enfant terrible” fashion; Lantink is trying to take on the same role in 2025 – provocative but playful innovator.
Scene and symbols
Instead of glamorous locations, Lantink chose a low-lit industrial dungeon next to the Eiffel Tower – a gesture that became a manifesto for the rejection of gloss for irony and an “underground” tone.
Archived codes and new intonations
- Cone bra — the first appearance in an orange bodysuit became a reference to the era Madonnas.
- Vest — the strip is turned vertically, the classic is read in a new way.
- Visual illusion — one-piece “hairy” suits create an optical illusion effect and continue the theme of Lantink’s own AW25.
- Movie quotes – a reference to The Fifth Element with white and orange belts in the spirit of Lilu performed Mila Jovovich.
- Archive of the 90s — rethinking the legendary collection Les Tatouages (1994).
Provocation and the body
Lantink has already caused controversy by introducing a model with silicone breasts. Where Gautier talked about freedom and gender, the new designer often uses provocation for effect rather than for meaning.
The Junior Collection is a statement of heritage
The collection’s title reads like a statement: “Jean Paul Gaultier Jr.”. The quotes are elegant, the irony is consistent, but the balance between respect for the archive and carnival play is so far shifted towards the latter.
Bottom line
Strength: energy and boldness, precise archival markers, visual freshness.
Weakness: excess of tricks and deliberate caricature.
Verdict: first return of ready-to-wear Jean Paul Gaultier in hands Durana Lantink gives the impression of a bright masquerade – but not always real fashion.
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