The glorious history of souvlaki began in 1924, when Isaac Meraklidis opened the first souvlaki shop “Egyptiacon” in Nicaea. Isaac's uncle, an Armenian from Adana (famous for its kebabs), came to Piraeus as a refugee.
He changed his name from Misak Anispikian to Isaac Meraklidis and became famous for his kebabs. Others followed in his footsteps, opening shops in Keratsini, Korydallos, Drapetsona and the port of Piraeus. Although many of these historic souvlaki have closed, some continue the traditions of their founders, and new ones are constantly opening.
The souvlaki places I prefer in Piraeus are authentic, old-fashioned and usually off the beaten track. They serve delicious souvlaki with secret red sauces, make their own meat patties and grill them to perfection.
Kohili
I've eaten souvlaki from Kohili dozens of times. They're small enough to fit in the palm of your hand and come with fluffy, dry pita bread and a special red sauce that's spicy but not too hot. It also comes with thinly sliced onions mixed with parsley and tomatoes. They don't use tzatziki and ask if we want fries (which we declined). The restaurant also serves lean pork skewers, kebabs, meatballs, and chicken skewers – all handmade and grilled over charcoal. Every time I eat one of these, I count my blessings. NM
82A Aghiou Georgiou, Korydallos, Tel. (+30) 210.495.4039
Daily 18:00-01:00 (delivery available)
[Ангелос Рентулас].
Panagiotis
According to the sign: “If you want souvlaki, meat portions, fries, please say so before your turn,” to avoid misunderstandings. I voted for the meatballs without hesitation. However, the tzatziki is piled on top like whipped cream on a cake, which is cute but inefficient in terms of distribution. One wrap from Panagiotis Lavkiotis is never enough.
104 Grigoriou Lambraki, Korydallos, Tel. (+30) 210.562.2355, 210.569.7174
Open daily 18:00-01:00, except Sunday (delivery available)
[София Папастрати].
Enty
Hovsep, an Armenian, opened this shop in 1946, and it is now run by two other Armenians, Vangelis and Stavros, who have been there for many years. Their pork is cut from tenderloin, and the patties only use onions. I recommend ordering the souvlaki without fries, and adding only tomatoes, parsley, or onions to the pita. You can eat standing up or sitting on stools, and you can also order takeout. These are small, proper souvlakis with no oil, sauces, fat, or bells and whistles, just the flavor of charcoal. In my opinion, this is the perfect souvlaki. Entis.
Dim. Karakoulouxi 4, Tel. (+30) 210.492.6117
Daily 12:00-23:30, closed on Sundays
Aris
This neighborhood souvlaki shop stands out in the Eleftherios Venizelos Square area of Rentis, despite its simple signage being barely noticeable. There is no seating at Aris; you have to eat your souvlaki standing up (which I recommend if you want it hot), take it out, or order delivery if you live nearby. “One gyro package, please,” minus the fries because they’re not very tasty, although the gyros are handmade and delicious. Aris makes them daily in the shop. The large soft pita also comes with freshly made tzatziki, just the right amount of tomato, thinly sliced onion, and their homemade red sauce. I love how he adds salt at the end and asks for more hot red pepper – a delight. MP
14 Pavlou Mela, Aghios Ioannis Rentis, Tel. (+30) 210.482.1902
Monday-Friday 14:00-00:00, Saturday-Sunday closed. Delivery is possible
Polyvios
The oldest and most traditional souvlaki shop in Drapetsona is Polyvios, located behind Papaioannou Bridge and Agios Dionisios Church. The shop was originally opened by Polyvios Sylvestros in 1935; it is now run by his grandson, also named Polyvios, who continues the tradition. “Let’s go to Agios Dionisios for souvlaki plates,” was what souvlaki lovers would say in the 1980s, when Polyvios was at the height of its popularity. Plates were a very popular way to serve souvlaki in the area: two pitas with meat, tomato, onion and parsley on top, and nothing else. Tzatziki and fresh fries were served on the side. Nice and simple. They make everything from scratch using ingredients sourced from local businesses. You should ask for fries, tzatziki or yogurt. Polyvios makes the sausage the same way his grandfather did, but he doesn’t share the recipe; He also serves kebabs, small round meatballs, and pork. The oil he adds to the pitas after frying them—his grandfather's idea—gives them a special flavor that no other souvlaki restaurant does. MP
28 Aghiou Dimitriou, Drapetsona, Tel. (+30) 210.461.7563
Monday-Saturday 18:00-23:30. Sunday closed
[Ангелос Гиотопулос].
Rhodopolis
Two large, soft, grilled pitas are placed on a small plate, topped with a perfectly cooked, melt-in-your-mouth kebab, tomatoes and onions, and topped with a sauce that leaves an unforgettable aftertaste. It’s made with a secret recipe that they don’t share. Spicy or plain, the sauce is simply delicious. The package contains only meat, tomatoes, onions and sauce; no tzatziki or fries, no discussion. The shop is located on a quiet street near Anapafseos, between Drapetsona and Keratsini. The decor is reminiscent of a mountain retreat: wooden paneling on the walls and framed paintings of landscapes. The plastic tables and chairs among the many basil plants on the sidewalk quickly fill up in the evenings. They don’t deliver, but they do offer takeaway. M.P.
13 Andrianou, Drapetsona, Tel. (+30) 210.462.3788
Thursday-Tuesday 18:00-00:00, Wednesdays closed
[Марина Петриду].
Giorgos
Giorgos is a cool, airy shop on the corner of Gounari and Nikita streets, in the Piraeus market. Their recipe is classic: a well-cooked meatball, peppery pita, tomatoes and a sauce that brings back memories of Sunday lunches in the countryside with grandma and grandpa. ND
18 Gounari & Nikita, Piraeus, Tel. (+30) 211.403.3388
Monday-Saturday: 11:00-19:30 (open until 22:00 on Thursdays in summer).
Serkos
It’s worth visiting Neraida Square in old Kokkina, not only because it’s neat and pretty, but also to try the delicious sausages and fluffy, soft, juicy kebabs at Serkos. Serkos is no longer alive. However, the grill he built to cook his amazing kebabs is still in operation, now run by his daughter Annie and son Avedis. Whatever you order – lahmacun, pork souvlaki, chicken, etc. – it’s all delicious. Don’t get full without trying the kebab. It’s soft and juicy, made from beef and lamb, and served on pita bread, seasoned only with salt and pepper. MV
39-41 Ionos Dragoumi, Neraida Square, Old Kokkinia, Tel. (+30) 210.492.8297
Monday-Saturday 19:00-00:30, Sunday closed (delivery available)
[Никос Кампурис].
Abraham
Avraam, Karabampas and Polyvios are the three “fathers” of souvlaki in Drapetsona. They created the tradition, and each of them had their own followers. In the days before delivery, the people of Piraeus considered going to Aghios Dionysios for shashlik and “black” sausage a worthy pastime. Avraam opened in 1938. Owner Avraam Savvides was a Pontian from Istanbul. His daughter continued the business, but the restaurant has since been sold, although the food and atmosphere remain unchanged. The large room with wood-panelled walls and a simple courtyard are perfect for those who want to remember or relive old family gatherings. The portions are generous, as are their souvlaki wraps, served with fluffy and fatty pita bread that is the perfect balance of crispy and soft, soaking up the delicious juices. The kebabs are juicy and fatty. As already mentioned, it is also famous for its “black” sausage. Unfortunately, the French fries were overcooked. Ch.T.
3 Sokratous, Drapetsona, Tel. (+30) 210.461.5841
Every day from 14:00 to 00:00, on Sundays from 12:00 (delivery possible)
Egyptiacon
According to some sources, this is where the history of souvlaki in Athens begins. Missak Anispikian left Asia Minor before the 1922 disaster and went to Egypt, arriving in Nicaea in 1924. Here he opened the first souvlaki shop, Aigyptiakon, introducing kebabs and his own version of the Arabic pita bread, which he developed with the help of a baker from Nicaea. The shop has moved several times over the years, but Missak’s successors continue the tradition in their new location. They make wraps using pita from the traditional workshop of Hasiotis, and succulent handmade kebabs made from beef and lamb. Try their delicious homemade falafel, too. GP
168 Petrou Ralli, Nikaia, Tel. (+30) 210.418.2920
Monday-Saturday 17:00-00:00. Closed on Sunday (delivery available)
[Вангелис Завос]
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